Purple Post-Punk Otter Rock

Pep the purple otter with his 3D printed bass guitar

Pep the purple otter with his 3D printed bass guitar

This is Pep. He’s a purple otter, from the TV show ‘Bear in the Big Blue House’.

We found him in an op-shop toy basket in a tiny town surrounded by desert and scorched wheat fields in South Australia. Since we already had both Pip and Pop, we realised his name had to be Pep. He’s now our constant travelling companion.

Recently he’s developed a desire to play rock music. Luckily, this bass guitar just appeared on Thingiverse. Thanks future-tinker! Rock On!

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9 Responses to Purple Post-Punk Otter Rock

  1. Cath Clark says:

    So that’s what that blue strappy thing was for all along! Cool

  2. If you take a sharpie (or other permanent marker) to the filament before it goes into the machine, you could have a stripey bass guitar for extra glam. (Don’t use red though – it comes out a sort of burnt-orange colour. Blue works well.)

    • BrazenArtifice says:

      I’ve read of people using sharpies, but I’ve never tried it. Would I really be able to see a stripey effect? That would be so cool.

      And if I added in RichRap’s glitter printing technique, some thin smears of metallic jo sonja acrylics and coated it all with several layers of clear acrylic it would be awesome.

      I’ve got to take a photo of my cherry red BC Rich “Bich” electric guitar and make a scale replica.

      So many ideas, so little skill 🙂

      • Bioluminescence says:

        You need to colour enough of the filament to do at least one layer of your print to get the stripe effect. When I was doing it for my hair clips, I measured how much filament I went through (marking before and after a print down the line with a pen) and then divided that by how many stripes I wanted, and colored it in appropriately. You get some natural ‘blending’ effect between the stripes as the heating crucible mixes the incoming filament with the existing stuff. Similarly, if you end with colored filament, run the extruder for a few seconds to clear it out if you want uncoloured again.

        Blue and green work well, purple is ok, yellow and orange aren’t bad, and red is pretty rubbish.

        I’ve not done the glitter effect yet – though I did ‘paint’ a hairclip with ‘black glitter glue’ to give it some shine, but it peeled off a couple of weeks later. I’m a bit nervous about glitter – they say it’s the herpes of the craft world!


        • BrazenArtifice says:

          Ok, thanks for all that information.

          The craft-herpes link has got me worried too now, I can just imagine the stuff getting everywhere. And the permanent marker method sounds tricky. I like my prints to run with as little personal attention as possible – I can’t resist looking, but I try not to touch!

          So maybe I’ll just try a good base-coat of clear acrylic medium, and artist’s acrylics on top of that. Acrylic medium seems to stick to almost anything, I guess it’ll stick to printed PLA.

  3. Rick says:

    Just found your blog and will be reading and pondering over it for sometime to come! I’ve ordered and got in most all my electronics, yet not hooked anything up yet, short of playing around a bit with my aurduino atmega2560 board. My electronics will be different than your’s thou. Don’t know what people are calling the set i have………hint, how i found you…trying to find out! Still waiting to get the proper jacks and plugs in before tinkering to much with them. Paid a pile of cash for them, want to do things right…hoping too anyways. I think mine are same or close to the “Makerbot” electronics, or that is where you can buy them from if want to pay more for them. Got mine from ebay new from guy in Denmark. I’m building the “Mendal Prusa” from scratch with out the plastic, using aluminum for most all and 5/16″ smooth and threaded rod. Kinda waiting on the weather here to warm up to work outside to do the mechanical parts. Will be probably late spring before i can break out a toast to anything working on mine! Having a real time finding info in one place for these boards with them coming in with out nothing, not even a piece of paper in with them. Glad to find your site with plenty info on your type electronics….which some will come in handy with mine. Keep up the great work, Thanks Rick. P.S. What is that picture of on the heading of your blog post? Been trying to figure it out????????? Pardon the pun, just wondering, have not read all posts and pages yet. …………o’ yea great guitar………..

    • Rick says:

      O……..i think i figured the picture out…is it a climbing wall…think i read your about page and it said something about indoor climbing…………..????????

      • BrazenArtifice says:

        A good guess, and excellent deductive ability, but unfortunately wrong 🙂

        It’s a good question, though, and it is a fascinating object, so I’ll post an un-cropped version of the photo with an explanation.

    • BrazenArtifice says:

      Playing around with your arduino is an excellent idea. I strongly recommend that nobody ever apply power to their stepper motors or hot end or heated build platform til they can flash their firmware into the controller electronics. My software stack will be different to yours, I guess, but I don’t know much about the makerbot electronics. My Prusa uses RAMPS v1.4 as its electronic brain, and I recommend Sprinter or Marlin as firmware.

      Getting reliable figures from your thermistors is vital in not melting important bits of printer – like the inside of your extruder. Too many people fire up their extruder without temperature feedback working. I really wish that the people selling assembled RAMPS units left them unflashed, so no-one would try to test their motors and heaters without getting the software working first.

      Knowing what firmware is on your controller board, and customising it for your hardware is the only way to select the right thermistor response curve, and the only way to calibrate the movement distances of the various motors.

      If you are building without any reprap printed plastic parts, I think you get to call your printer a RepStrap, rather than a RepRap, which is very cool. Triffid Hunter built his Wooden Mendel as a RepStrap, printing the mechanical designs out on paper, transferring them onto wood, and cutting them out. Now, of course, he can print his own upgraded parts.

      You won’t ever find all the info in one place. This is science in the age of enlightenment – with all the letter writing, occasional misunderstandings and explosions that entails. Everyone is doing things slightly (or completely) differently, and we just trawl through the accumulated knowledge with our search engines! We’re all learning new stuff every day.

      At least by building it yourself you can fix it yourself, not like a $50 laserprinter from OfficeWorks. That is why I bought the Mendel Prusa kit from MakerGear, rather than their equally well designed Mosaic. I wanted the learning experience, and the sense of triumph that comes with each solved problem. You’ve just chosen a more in-depth learning experience than me!

      Seth Godin refers to this as getting through ‘the dip’, and points out it applies in all fields of expertise. When you’ve built a functioning RepStrap, everyone else who has done it before you knows just what it took.

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